Exploring SE Arizona

Willcox, AZ

I wanted to visit this little town because the town kept coming up on the internet when I searched for farms and produce stands in Arizona.  It is right off Highway 10 so I stopped by as I exited New Mexico.  I was there in the wrong season to find fresh produce or stands but it does claim to be the home of Rex Allen. Rex was a western singer of the 1940’s and ‘50s who also became a cowboy movie star.  He played the Red Rider on the radio (yes, I remember).  Otherwise the town is a mix of buildings and closed shops.  I did find the “Big Texas BBQ” housed in an authentic red railroad dining car.  Good pork sandwich and French fries double dipped in beer batter. 

Onward to the west.  Next stop was a left turn onto Benson and to the big caves.

High Desert-Kartchner Caverns State Park

This evening, Monday, December 27, I’m at Kartchner Caverns State Park near Benson, Arizona.  I was told by friend Sharon to see these caves since they are the newly discovered in 1974.  I had already seen Carlsbad Caves in New Mexico as a child. 

The state park is in the desert high country and has a lovely large area for RV’s that include electricity and water, free showers and several rest rooms for $25 per night.  It is a well manicured area with paved driveways and pads.  I’m writing this from the picnic table and near dusk.

The modern visitor's center features large lit pictures of the inside of the cave, films, a café and gift shop.  There is a lovely cactus garden surrounding the building.

I was interested in the rocks and bought a book on Arizona geology. The tours were filled up for the day but start again early the next morning.  Perfect timing. 

These caves were amazing.  Discovered by two young cavers, they kept it a secret for many years while working with the family who owned the property.  They eventually got funding and the state parks department spent millions of dollars to develop it.  The hour and a half tour costs $22 which includes an electric tram ride to the entrance.  At the entrance to the otherwise normal looking small hillside, there are two chambers to protect the limestone “living cave” from outside influences.  First was the air, the second was a misting room to contain even the lint on visitor’s clothes.  It was then about a half-mile walk with a guide along cement paths with metal railings.  There are necessary to keep your balance as you look at the top of the cave…actually a series of caves.  Water percolates from the upper surface and calcite formations continue to grow as stalagmites reaching up from the ground and stalactites dripping down like icicles. The main feature is a column that is lit with music and changing lights.  I would recommend this tour to anyone.  The tour guide was excellent.  It is very well done and worth the price.

On to Bisbee, Arizona

I’d had mixed reviews from friends who had been here but their brochure was so compelling that I just had to see it.  It is a town near the furthest southeast corner of the state and near the Mexico border.  As I got within about 10 miles, I entered some serious mountains.  VANessa was struggling to the nearly 5,000 mile elevation level. 

This is the craziest place I’ve ever seen. It’s rather like an illustration from a Dr. Seuss book.  In a confluence of a variety of steep mountains and deep gullies is this town clinging to the hillsides and centered in a narrow, curving, and rolling base. There is not even a flat place between the mountains, let alone a valley.  I parked and started walking until I found the “Savory Café” (on several levels of the slope) and sat at one of the two counter seats.  This is a combobbled combination of any type of building materials available.  I ordered a sandwich.  Another woman sat down beside me and looked to me like a local…so I asked her.  She said she had moved here 30 years ago from California, had run a gallery and was now retiring.  She said this was originally a copper mining town that closed down.  The hippies had moved in to abandoned buildings and because they were so self-sufficient they could live there without much from the outside.  Then, she said, the gays and artists moved in because of the cheap housing and they improved the housing, restaurants, old hotels and downtown shops.  The rich visited and bought art but didn’t seem to stay because there is nothing else to do such as skiing or water sports.   I thanked her for the information and started to walk the narrow, winding sidewalk to downtown. 

This is still a hippy town.  Galleries did not have the finer art…in fact it was rather crude for my taste.  There were a lot of dusty antique shops with overpriced goods…mainly western and cowboy items…plus an old bookstore. Many of the "old west" look has been preserved in the hotels and other buildings.  I did find a book-on-tape. The dry goods store had a creaky wooden floor along with lots of rodeo shirts and a big array of cowboy hats and boots.  I noticed a machine in the corner that I’d not seen since childhood.  It was an X-ray machine formerly used in shoe stores.  Children put on the new shoes and put their feet into it.  The salesman, parent, and child all had viewing pieces to look and see thechild’s foot  bones and determine if the shoes fit well.  This type machine was in every shoe store but suddenly they were removed.  As an adult I understand they figured out that X-rays were not so good for people and they stopped doing that.  The clerk said that this machine was not functional…only a discussion item.   Several of us customers did have a lively talk about our youth…and how amazing it was to wiggle your toes to see your bones moving.  

Pawn Shops and Thrift Shopping

Because there were reports of wind, cold, and snow forecast, I called Aunt Fran in Scottsdale to say I’d try to make it to her house before the storm.  I arrived about 7pm and settled in for the night.   The next day Fran talked about advertisements on TV regarding pawn shops and she’d never been to one.  We headed out after breakfast to the part of town that is supposed to have a lot of them.  We found the first one and ended up each buying a bit of jewelry but otherwise it is mostly “guy stuff” or electronics that we didn’t need.  On the way down the street she spotted a thrift store and said she’d always wanted to stop but never had.  It was a Value Village (VV’s to those of us bargain hunters).  I told her it was overpriced and I no longer went to the ones at home…but I’d go with her.  Well, it’s a very different store than I’m used to.  Clean, carpeted, wide aisles, and  low prices.  We found cartloads of Chico and other designer brand items in nearly new condition for amazing prices.  I asked about any other stores and they sent us down the road where we found an even bigger store.  I found Ralph Lauren shirts and sweaters and more Chico’s….like new.  As we left, the storm hit with pouring down rain and streets flooded.  It continued the rest of the day and evening  and even during the night.  My van was gently swayed by the wind as I slept.  In the morning all the water was gone and the sun was out.  Fran said this length of the rainstorm was unusually long and she could remember only a few other times it has happened.  To me it felt like home for a short while.  

By Thursday it had turned cold and I saw a small flurry of snow in the afternoon.  The local news showed some Phoenix areas with light covering and lots of snow in the surrounding mountains.  We covered Fran's plants with sheets to protect them from the forecasted night frost, then settled in to a great dinner of BBQ ribs and baked potatoes.  

I'm not sure when I'll be moving on.  I'm keeping an eye on the weather reports both west and northwest. 

Deja vu Ozona

I was driving through west Texas and the sun was going down.  I turned off the freeway at an RV Park sign, and signed up for one night.  With a little time, I drove down town and had a strange feeling I’d been there recently.  Yes, I had stopped at the post office on my way east.  The postmaster and several locals had chatted with me as I purchased stamps for some postcards. 

This little town of Ozona, Texas (population 3,500) is the county seat of Crockett County and has a beautiful county seat building downtown.  Next to it is an historical museum along with a statue of Davy Crockett in the park.  These, plus some downtown  buildings  (one looks like an old bank) and even some bulk work along the park has an elegant beige stone that looks hand cut.  They say that Davy Crockett never stepped on land in this county but they do honor him with the county name.

I left Ozona early Sunday morning with a good nights sleep and a full day of driving ahead of me.  West Texas reminds me of parts in Eastern Washington.  I put in the books-on-tape of “Outer Banks”  and the drive went by faster.  The next two hours I pondered the surprise ending then pulled into a rest stop to make a sandwich and cold drink for lunch.  The sun is bright and I had to pull the curtain over the driver’s window to keep from burning.  My next big city is El Paso at about 2:30.  The new time zone gives me an extra hour of daylight.

It was a very long day of driving and my eyes were stinging.  I bunked down at an RV park in Las Cruces, New Mexico. The restaurant next door is closed on Sunday and I was starved!  I cooked in the van...sweet potato pancakes, and pickled beets (whole can).  Yum 

Regarding the Bridge from Hell

I got an email asking if I went back over the "bridge from hell" in Lake Charles, Louisianna.  Yes, I did...this time with my eyes open.  There was little wind which made it easier.  At the top I looked out at oil refineries, tanks and oil ships as far as I could see. The big oil leak was closest to this area...but out to sea of course.  I can  understand the mixed feelings when they were going to shut this down...a lot of jobs are here.

Fireworks?? 

So, what about all these fireworks stores?  Not just seasonal tents but two story brick buildings and permanent retail stores as well as those tents.  I casually asked what that was about in December…and apparently all year long.  I’ve seen them from Florida across to at least the west Texas border.

The only answer was “They like to shoot them off in the south.”  Do any of you know about this?

In the evening of Christmas Day I hear and see fireworks going off in the nearby sports field. 

Last Day on the Gulf Beach

Another lovely and warm day of shopping, beach, and big lunch at the Golden Corral.  However, it’s  time for me to head west.  As I drive along the coast highway to the Louisiana border,  I’d not considered that I’d be looking into the sun from 3:30 until dark.  Driving, reading maps, and glare put strain on eyes and I don’t need more.  I will go to sleep earlier and get up earlier to accommodate this.

So, I pulled over at yet another Wal-Mart to stay overnight, and enjoyed pushing a cart around as families bought their gifts and holiday food.  One woman had a frozen duck and said it was traditional in her family.  I'd tried it many years ago and a few bites of cooked duck did not produce a need for more.   It was a noisy night at the Wal-Mart even though I was parked on the furthest boundary.  Motorcycles, car alarms, screeching tires.   I guess I can sleep through anything.    

On Friday I started early with about 8 hours of constant driving until just west of Houston.   Since it was Christmas eve, I decided to give myself a treat.  I stayed at a nice hotel with an in-room Jacuzzi and lots of hot water.   With dinner next door at a recommended restaurant (good food and service) I then got a good night’s sleep as I watched a drenching Texas thunder and rain storm from a warm space.  Christmas Day is forecast as windy but dry.  I will be starting early.    

New Friends along the Gulf Coast

After staying the night at a favorite RV Park, Martin Lake Resort, the manager gave me a map and suggested I visit Ocean Springs, a small town on the east end of the Mississippi Gulf Coast.  This is on the coastal highway but I’d missed it on my first drive through.  It was too cold then to enjoy anything anyway.  Today it was nearly 70 degrees and sunny.  The tiny town’s main street is lined with tall oak trees and branches that reach across at the top to form a shaded arch.  With little shops with names like “Bayou Belle”,  I had to stay.  There was easy parking off main street and I spend the afternoon just taking-in the beautiful items, people, holiday music and even hot cider and cookies. A bit of southern holiday hospitality.

I ran into two other shoppers who seemed to be on the same shopping route I was.  One had a beautiful Scottish accent.  When we were at the Lovelace Drug Store old fashioned soda counter at the same time, we naturally struck up a conversation.  They had seen the van and knew the name “Okanagan” and were delighted to tell me they were Canadians. 

Bell Ringer

Tonight I met Julie. I was spending the night parked at the 24 hour Wal-Mart near Biloxi.  She was outside the store ringing her bell and tending the Salvation Army kettle.  It occurred to me that she might know of the local Salvation Army thrift store.  I asked her and then as she considered it, I said I’d be back out after shopping and it would give her some time to think. 

In the way out, I dropped my money into the kettle and we began to chat.  She gave me some very confusing directions which she continuously corrected and we both started to laugh.  She said the Goodwill that used to be near the coast was destroyed by Katrina and she doesn’t know where they are now.  Many places had relocated.

I asked her about her home.  She lives in Bay St. Louis…along this coast but a bit further west from here.  She said it is brick but it was filled by 7 feet of mud and surf.  She and her husband lost everything.  She had worked at a local hospital but it was damaged so she had no job.  Her husband is a carpenter and is out of work too.  This bell-ringing job will help them for another month.   

She was curious about my travel adventure so we talked about that and all the while people stuffed money into her kettle.   When the wind turned chilly, we said good-bye with a hug.   

Casinos

Most of the casinos…about 6… are grouped together in Biloxi.  Formerly (before the hurricane), they were built on the water.  The local or state ordinance required that.  After they were all blown away, the law was changed to allow them to build on solid land.  However, half of them are right on the beach and the others are across the road that skirts the shore.  I don't see how that afforded much change or protection in case of another one. They appear to be the tallest buildings in the area. 

After a quiet night at the Wal-Mart, I'm traveling west along the coast to Gulfport.  My thanks to McDonald's for the use of their parking lot and free Wi-Fi this morning. 

Along the Underside of Florida

The coastal road along the underside of the Florida panhandle is leisurely and relaxing.  The white sandy beach is visible while driving. There are signs of damage from hurricane Dennis which left just walls of beach cabins...otherwise popular for summer visitors. Insurance costs and restrictions for rebuilding have left them shuttered and sad.

At about the furthest south point of this portion of the state, the highway goes through the town of Apalachicola (just like its spelled..just take your time) and turns left. It was time for a rest, lunch and a walk about this quaint town.  I found a antique store...sort of.  He was the former editor of the town newspaper, sold it but kept the old building as his "man cave" and had collected enough to almost be a museum.  The town was the home to the man who invented the first ice-making machine.  I guess in this part of the country they are very motivated.  I had lunch at the counter in "The Grill"...a cup of shrimp chowder and fish/chips (haddock).  All was delicious. 

The road got busier with more commercial development as I neared Panama City and further up the coast.  Lots of tall condo and upscale restaurants and amusement parks. I continued to Grayton Beach State Park and signed up for the night.  Florida state parks are outstanding with clean, private RV spots with water and electrical hook-ups.  There is an abundance of staff and it is quiet.  In the morning I went to the beach which startled me since the grassy dunes are made of pure white sand that looks like snow.  The sand is like
talcum powder and I was the only one there as far as I could see in both directions. A board walk ambles over the dunes to protect them until reaching the water.  The drifting sand over the boardwalk looks like snowdrifts.  Cost for the stay was about $20. 

Now the traffic, stop lights, and commercialism were testing my patience so at Pensacola  I returned to Hy #10...the main freeway.  I drove through Mobile, AL, and to the Gulf Coast starting at the eastern point of Biloxi, Mississippi. Sunny and no wind.

Time in Tampa

First Days in Tampa

I must say that sleeping in any place other than the van left me uneasy for a few nights.  Vanessa had become like a safe cocoon.  Just after I arrived, she had lost the use of the interior lights and electrical outlets so the boys went to work.  Bryan, Shon and Will checked everywhere until they found a battery underneath the couch and suspended below the level of the floor.  It took some time but they persisted.  They found the battery dry and filled it with water.  After a short time Vanessa was as good as new.  My thanks, guys, for the help.   Some lazy days watching Brian catch fish in the lake, walks, shopping, even a work-out at the club and I was feeling great.

Birthday and Christmas

Since my birthday is so close to Christmas (9 days before), I’ve usually gotten and “happy birthday and Merry Christmas” present.  However, this one was unique.  On the 16^th the “gang” took us all out for a wonderful dinner and movie.  The next evening was an early but traditional Christmas .  After a great dinner, we gathered around the tree and opened gifts.

Heading West on Sunday Morning

Sunday, Dec. 19^th, I said goodbye to everyone and headed out.  Teri and Bryan were catching a flight at noon and we’d all had a wonderful  time reminiscing and sharing stories.  I caught highway #19 again…this time going north.  I made a side trip to a small fishing village named  Aripeka …named after a Seminole Indian leader.  The original one-room Post Office said the town was settled in 1886.  I stopped at “Suzie’s Shack”  a second hand store that was a small and modest home completely filled with used clothing and household items. I don’t know how, but the family including children, lived there too.  Suzie says she does a good business with summer tourists.  Nothing there for me but we did have a nice chat.

I passed over the Suwanee River.  I didn’t know it came so far south.  I’ll have to look that up.

Back on the highway, I saw several produce stands and flea markets.  At one I purchased beautiful strawberries.  He said they were from Plant City, an area two hours away that has huge strawberry fields.  We’d all seen the news of the freeze a few days ago but these were large and delicious.  So nice they saved some for me.

I continued north to the town of Perry, and then followed state highway #98 which is also called the Sopchoppy.  The road is good and lined with trees and short palms.  It skirts the edge of the Apalachicola National Forest.  It continues through scarcely inhabited areas which are also protected wildlife areas.  As in many parts of Florida, the roads are built up with swamps on either side.  I slowed down for something moving on my right and a black bear ran across the road…the another followed!  I was stopped on the road…I’ve never been that close to a wild bear. 

 The sun was going down rapidly and I began to get worried.  The nearest Passport America RV park was two hours away.  I needed a safe place to park before dark.  Just in time I saw the entrance to Ochlockonee River State Park.  The Ranger was welcoming and said to take any place I wanted…there were only a few other RV’s here.    Electrical and water hook up, fire pits and picnic tables.  Very nice and clean.  After hooking up I took a short walk and found the rest rooms and showers.  For electrical and water hook-up, picnic table and firepit at a wooded location was $19 per night.   The weather quickly cools down when the sun sets.   Tonight is a hot dinner and DVD. 

The Finish Line-At Last

This afternoon I arrived at the home of Will and Di in Tampa.  Although known for its balmy winters, Florida is experiencing an "unusual freeze".  You've already heard me talking about cold and windy weather during my last few days along the coast. Fortunately, this is supposed to end soon and warm up.

Daughter Teri and her husband Bryan had been here visiting (they otherwise live near me in the Northwest), then went on a short cruise and will join us in a few days for an early holiday celebration all together.

Now for a little rest and time visiting.